Lugar Lang: My (Gastronomic) Backpacking Experience in Iloilo City (Plus Guimaras)

Iloilo is a province in the central Philippines. Accentuated with a rich history, the province is endowed with natural resources, vibrant business environment, fascinating culture and… yes, delectable food. Even the primary reason I had in mind when I decided to purchase travel ticket to the province three months prior to the actual trip is food – the butterscotch, not the batchoy, not the molo soup.

For three months, I was able to design my itinerary as tight as possible for me to travel and visit a lot of interesting places in the province. I have gone from including Bacolod City to scrapping the city and replacing it with Guimaras. All my excitement literally and figuratively dropped into the quicksand of helplessness when I realised that I would not have money on the scheduled travel date. I saw a flicker of hope at a distance – in the face of my superfriend, my second brother, Jerry. Hurrah! He agreed to lend me enough cash for the trip. And so I slept and woke up at 0200hours to have a quick shower and walk to the nearby waiting area for a ride.

In the Manila Domestic Airport, we had to wait for almost two hours because we were never informed that the departure time had been changed. And I could not even sleep because the seats are not intended for sleeping. Jerry, Sweet and me were not yet sure of our schedule that led us to great chats and brainstorming. “If Guimaras is not good for overnight stay, then we will go to Bacolod.” At 0510hours, the plane took its track in the air.

After 50minutes, I cast my first footprint over Iloilo. I never thought that Iloilo Airport is amazing in terms of its size and structure. Vans service the area. They offer you packaged tours around the city and out-of-town escapades. There are also public transports (GT Express type) that offer more affordable rate: 50pesos for a ride to the centre of Iloilo City or SM City. For us, we got off at Jaro, near the church. Since I was too excited for my first-time in Iloilo, I immediately embarked on a walkathon with my friends. Jerry, by the way, is not new to the place since he had worked in Iloilo before. Our first stop was the Jaro Church. The bell tower is separated from the main body of the church. After that, we proceeded to the Graciano Lopez-Jaena Park, where we saw young boys playing basketball in the watered court. My first food in Iloilo? Bibingka! This is similar to rice cakes. One paper box that contains 10pieces costs 15pesos. We saw Ted’s Oldtimer La Paz Batchoy, but the lady told us that they were not open yet that time. The cook is out!

We finally decided to go to Guimaras, instead of Bacolod City. We rode in a jitney (ask the police what to take – somebody told us to take Jaro Liko, but I forgot what did we take) to Ortiz Pier for 7.50pesos. Ortiz Pier hosts pumpboats and vessels bound for Jordan Wharf. The Parola Port also serves as loading and unloading area for vessels to and from the Jordan Wharf. This is opposed to what the blogs are saying that Parola Port only caters to passengers and cargoes bound for Buenavista Wharf. In the jitney, we got off at the street where the Department of Trade and Industry Region 6 is located. Just walk straight until you reach the pier (hint: big boats at the end of the road). Then turn left. Before reaching the Bureau of Customs building, there is a small hut at the side of the street. You can buy your ticket here for 14pesos. Travel time is 30-45 minutes, depending on the size of crests and troughs. The searide was truly exciting because we were anchored to the seats just behind the noisy “heart” of the pumpboat. In front of us were sacks of animal feeds.

Seeing Jordan Wharf is like watching a dilapidated port in an Anaconda film. Corroded steels, hanging bars and reclining structures greeted me, with the warning that bringing of any part of mango plant is STRICTLY PROHIBITED in Guimaras. I must understand that the main source of livelihood and economic development of the province is mango. Alighting in the wharf never crossed my mind that it could be so difficult. Tricycle (locals say “traysikol”) drivers blocked my way. It was like a scene of a movie premiere. I am the movie star coming out of my car. And the minute I stepped into the red carpet, reporters and fans greeted me with claustrophobia. One intrepid driver, who is old and grey-haired, followed us up to the nearby cafeteria (we decided to take our breakfast in the island). We wanted fish, any fishy viand. Unfortunately, they only had pusit, tocino and chicken. I am glad I found a thing that made me smile: “Lift” softdrinks. I would have asked for it had I not known that it contains Yellow #5, similar to all yellow-colored softdrinks. This substance is theorised to cause some reproductive health-related problems.

After eating, the old man was still there… selling his service to drive us around. We asked his rate to Igang, jump-off point for SEAFDEC. He told us 500pesos for the reason that it is 38 kilometres away. I told him that I would rather take the jitney for 35pesos to Igang. Longer chatting with him provided us the advantage of knowing the real fare rate. I asked him again of his rate to Igang, where we can take boats to SEAFDEC. He said in an astonished pitch, “Igang? Akala ko ay Villa Igang. Mas malapit yun, kaya okey na yung 300, mga 28 kilometers din yun.” Since we did not know if his claims were true or not, we closed on the deal. And I asked him to go to Trappist Monastery to buy the much-coveted monastic products.

We felt that the trip to the jump-off point was taking too long. So I asked our driver for the nearest beach. Raymen! On our way to Raymen Beach Resort, a trike took the first place in what seems to be a “race” for our driver, who drove faster and wilder. He honks at people who are already at the side and not even over the cemented part of the highway. He also did that to a group of bikers, who got pissed off. I do not recommend him. I disliked him more when I learned that the Villa Igang he mentioned to us is just the neighbour of Raymen. Napakasinungaling!

We reached Raymen Beach Resort at the mouth of Alubihod Bay in Nueva Valencia, Guimaras around 1030hours. Entrance fee is 20pesos. The neighbouring Villa Igang’s entrance fee is 100pesos, as per our driver. I wondered what made the two resorts different from each other since they are literally composed of the same sand and saltwater, separated by fish nets. People flock the resort with 20-peso entrance fee. While resting under a talisay tree, I opened one of the boxes of mango bars (butterscotch) I bought from the Trappist Monastery. After two hours, we decided to tidy up and head back to the city. We had our lunch at Lisa’s Talabahan. A tray of oysters (ca 15pieces) is 30pesos; pork barbecue is 48pesos; and native chicken barbecue is 50pesos. I ate the oysters with spoon and fork because I am not good in eating with bare hands.

After lunch, we proceeded to Mt Balaan Bukid (170+ masl) in Hoskyn, Jordan, Guimaras. The mountain is home to 15 praying stations, with a cross as the last stop. You can see Iloilo City from the peak and nearby places. The caretaker lives near Station 11. They usually close the church to prevent theft and robbery of valuable items. The hike from the first station to the peak lasts for only 15-20minutes.

At 1500hours, we left for the Jordan Wharf. We bought our tickets for 14pesos each. Though there are lifevests hanging on the seats, some are damaged. I wondered how it can be used with its torn state. There are no problems if you are a good swimmer. But for me, whew! Paging, police!

We then took a jitney with the signboard “Super / Robinsons.” Fare is 7.50pesos. We walked and passed by the market, until we reached the Chito’s Hotel. A junior deluxe room (under promo) is 690pesos per night, good for two. An additional bed is 150pesos per night. Check-in time is 1300hours and check-out time is 1200hours. The air-conditioned room includes hot and cold shower and cable television. We took a rest for 30minutes. At 1630, we went out and rode to Molo for 7.50pesos. The Molo Church looks like the Jaro Church.

Fiesta! The plaza was filled with the usual components of Pinoy theme park. The grand church is overlooking the plaza plagued with gamblers. Then we went to the Carpenter’s Bridge and the Treñas Boulevard, a platform for jogging. Since the drizzle was getting worse, we took a jitney at the end of the jogging area. For 7.50pesos, we were brought to SM City Iloilo.

For 68pesos, we had a special batchoy at Ted’s Oldtimer La Paz Batchoy. The stock is unlimited. Biscocho Haus has branches at the jitney unloading station and inside the mall. You can also buy souvenir shirts at the Department Store. It was already dark when we left the mall and took a walk to Smallville. We talked about having a booze session, and Pirates accommodated us. After getting our heads floating in the happiness of lightness and swirl, we headed to JD Bakery Café. Jerry has been saying good things about this bakeshop. We ordered molo soup and hot chocolate! What a treat to end my first day in Iloilo!

Traversing Mt Maculot

I have been hearing a lot about Mt Maculot… that it is the destination of some groups for spiritual rejuvenation or a very laid-back camping experience. Towering at an altitude of a little more than 800 masl, the mountain bestows great visual delights especially at the Rockies.

Together with Rey, we stayed for the night of 17 July at Jelyn’s abode. I was not supposed to eat night meals to prevent myself from going over the line of obesity. But Jelyn tempted me with kare-kare and ginisang ampalaya na may itlog at sitsaron (now, translate it!). Let me just inform you that Perry, not a pusang gala and in no way related to Katy Perry, is adorable. We woke up, took a bath, dressed up and left Bay at 0430. Bong’s team left Manila at around the same time.

We boarded a jeepney bound for Calamba Crossing (23pesos). We should have taken another jeepney to Turbina but a trike offered a 50-peso ride for the three of us. We got off at the JAM pick-up station. While waiting for the others, we decided to eat. For 38pesos, I had a mouth-watering viand (atay, liver of… I do not know if chicken or pig). One of the bus conductors told us that there are no Lemery-bound buses plying at that route. He suggested getting off at Lipa and taking a jeepney to Lemery. Like an obedient student, we took a bus going to Batangas City Pier via the Star Tollway (44.50pesos). JAM Liner does not implement the 20% discount for students. You can tell the bus conductor to drop you at the point where you can wait for Lemery-bound jeepneys. Fare to Cuenca is 21pesos.

We bought lunch at the cafeteria (the male assistant said that it has no name yet) in front of a bakery. First grouping was done at the other end of the market near the terminal for trikes. We arranged for 4 trikes to take the group (21pax) at the jump-off point (20pesos). We decided to have a Grotto-Summit-Rockies traverse route but the leading trike took us to the jump-off point for the Rockies. The trike driver knows that mountaineers need to register at the Barangay Hall (10pesos) before proceeding. As per Gideon Lasco’s website, you can take guides here if you do not know the trail.

Emher served as the team leader with Bong, Louie, Jelyn, Camz, Elli and me as his lead-pack mates. The tail was led by Rey with the Baguio girls (Sarah, Amor and Julie with newbies Phoebe and April), Rap, Rosei, Rosei’s friend, Joseph, Erick, Thisoy and Rheinan. The Rocky Road (aka Rockies) trail is relatively easy, with lots of rest stations. The Baguio girls brought ube jam. Rosei’s sanitary pad was used to turn Bong into a Hello Kitty impersonator.

 

At 11AM, we reached the peak of the Rocky Road trail. There is a sari-sari store at this point. A soda drink (8-oz) costs 35pesos. Gatorade is for 65pesos.

At 1300, we commenced the journey to the Grotto via the summit. Out of nowhere, the group just started speaking in English with British accent and other unimaginable accents. Trails are dirty, with lots of scattered plastics and annoying materials. The summit is similar to that of Mt Makiling – no outstanding view! There are two roped segments.

After emerging from the forest, the grassland would greet you in an ecstatic manner, with the blades of the grass swaying around like rejoicing for your arrival. At the peak of the grassland portion is the Grotto.

We cleansed ourselves at the nearby Mt Maculot View Resort for 50pesos. We visited St Isidore Church.

When we were already sitting comfortably in a jeepney for Lipa, Rey realised that Erick and Rheinan were missing. They were left behind! So we turned around and drove back to get the two. For 23pesos, you can tell the driver to take you at the bus station.

After three weeks of staying in the lowlands, I was given again the chance to climb. As usual, the group is crazy and insanely happy, chatting their hearts out as if they have never seen each other for a year or two. I wonder when will they run out of stories.

Tarak Ridge

I was introduced to Tarak Ridge when one of my friends went there last year. He told me that its main feature is the strong wind. Blogs affirm to the claim. And I was given the chance to confirm it amidst heavy rain brought about by the tail of typhoon Falcon.

A view of the mountain under the spell of typhoon Falcon.

When I got off from the bus at the jump-off point in Alasasin (pronounced as Alas-asin), it was raining hard. When the weather got worse, I thought of going back home to enjoy the comfort that my bed can offer. But knowing myself, there was nothing to worry about rain-trekking. In my mind, as long as I am in a group, there is nothing to think about.

Louie, Bong and Dindo in front of the landmark at the jump-off to Tarak Ridge in Alasasin, Mariveles, Bataan.

Together with Dindo and Bong, we had sisig at Erlinda’s Eatery. After thirty minutes, Louie arrived. The rain kept on pouring. It was getting hard. And my enthusiasm was slowly going down with the water in the drainage. The two sides of the main street looked like a waterway. People kept looking at us, which bothered me, not with their stares but with their thoughts. When Rey got off from the bus, I knew that we had to proceed. From the words of Dindo, “makulit ang akyat na ‘to.”



After registration at the barangay hall (40pesos), we then proceeded in high spirit. We put on and off our ponchos because the rain was also on and off like the lights in most red rooms. What is nice with Tarak is the nearness of the jump-off point to the main street. There are houses along the way at the commencement of the trek. So, expect that people would tend to ask you things, which they know already or that the answers are pretty obvious. Queries like “Aakyat kayo?” and “Magta-Tarak kayo?” are common.

When we reached the DENR station cum Nanay Daldal’s nook cum stop-over, the rain had temporarily stopped. We were treated to a sight of dead python. Nanay Daldal claimed that she was the one who single-handedly killed the snake. Bong playfully posed with it. And I never went near to it. You can see here banners of different mountaineering groups. After leaving Nanay’s nook, the rain started to pour again. Owing to the fluidity of water, it made the trails their home. There was no other option but to soak our shoes and sandals to get moving.

In the forest, the colours of our ponchos seemed like moving cartels of kiddie playgrounds: yellow for Bong, violet for Louie, grey (which is a bit dull) for Dindo, green for me, lucid yellow for Rey (with, of course, his red umbrella). The clouds were stubborn; they kept on blocking the view. Though the trail was a bit easy at the start, it became seemingly impenetrable after the first open area. Coronitas (Lantana camara) and rattan throng the area, with the thorny stems thwarting the excitement of trekking.

Small falls adorn the trail up to the summit. According to Rey, some of these are not as nice looking as they are in the rainy season. With the water flowing like shawls, the falls provided lots of pretty background for picture-taking. Just be careful as the water current might be strong, enough to cause swaying or imbalance on your position. Be sure to have your own trekking pole or anything that would make you stable throughout the course of crossing the catchments. The Papaya River, which is one of the highlights of Tarak Ridge, was raging like a roaring lion. The sound of the falling water filled up my sense of hearing that I could not almost hear when they talk to me, except when they shout.

A short past distance from the mighty Papaya River, we decided to eat our packed lunch. When it was about time to proceed, I realised that I have lost my eyeglasses. And I was telling them that I put it on the log, which was felled by nature. Minutes ago while they were eating, Bong noticed that rice kept falling from his container. He did not attribute that to clumsiness, he believed that something paranormal was going on.

As my sight was significantly assuaged, I trailed behind the group. It was getting dark because of the weather and the dense canopy. Rey told us to prepare our headlamps. Dindo acted us my eyes and guided me through the mini-labyrinths of Tarak Ridge. Bong led us to the monkey-trail part. Rey and Louie formed the head, Bong as the mid-man, and Dindo and me as the tail. The three waited for us at the grassy part near the summit. Rey showed us the part where the gustiness of the wind is unbearable. Because of the extremely strong winds, we decided to camp at the forested part not-so-far from the summit.

We brought four tents, but we decided to install only three. Bong had his sturdy tadpole tent, Louie in his tent, and Rey and Dindo in my tent. Rey ensured my tent's durability and sturdiness against Tarak's winds by binding the poles with lots of pegs and ties, in addition to his flysheet as the vestibule.

Rey cooked sinigang na baboy with chops of chicken and gabi. I brought suka na may sili (6-month old) but we never used it. During their face-to-face match with 1-litre GSM Blue, Rey and Dindo talked about almost everything, from family matters to Bakun Trio, from luminous eyes to avian tweets. Louie refused to drink with them. I served as their audience, enough to affirm or reject statements in times when they needed a third-party opinion.

I have done rain-trekking in Mt Daguldul but I never experienced hypothermia (mild or serious). In Tarak, I chilled twice: right after the booze session and dawn the following day. While I was chilling, I got scared because I did not know what to do. I could not move my body because I was really shivering like an earthquake shaking the Hyatt Hotel.

The following day, the weather was still not good. Since the four of us (except Rey) were first-timers, we tried our best to go to the peak and not mind the strong wind. Rey was left at the campsite to cook for our breakfast. We had our lunch at 1100H and hiked down at 1200H. We wanted to stay longer but we needed to go down because the local people might think that something had happened to us. We met Eric, Casey and another Dexter at the Papaya River. Rain had stopped. The python at Nanay Daldal's nook was already trashed out. But the dogs near the mini-Baguio part were still there. We left Mariveles at 1730H with the thought of "Fairy Godmother" and "Faster" playing in the small screen of the bus. Fare is 222pesos for students (Mariveles to Pasay).